While the former might have a little more resilience than a standard lead acid, they still seem to hate a discharge of more than 70% or so repeatedly.Īgain I really have no science based info to back this up personally, just purely observational.Įdit: out of curiosity just went and looked at one of the li-ion batteries pamphlet and it clearly says not to allow it to discharge on the front. Be it AGM, Li-ion, or standard lead acid. My career for the last 8 or so years has been building custom motorcycles and I can only speak from what I have observed, these little batteries DO NOT like to be discharged over and over, it kills them very quickly. I would be very interested to hear where you gathered the info about gel batteries having deep cycle capabilities (no sarcasm). Interesting, I do not at all profess to be an expert in this stuff - in fact quite the opposite. Sorry if my explanation of things isn't clear, let me know if I need to add more detail to help explain better. What am I doing wrong? Is the second isolator too redundant/messing things up? Is there another way to trigger the aux fuse panel to come on when the car is on? The thing is, when this is all set up, and I test my aux panel, it still has constant power even when the car is off. So I ran another battery relay isolator from the aux battery to the aux panel, that is triggered to the 30a fuse for the radio in my main fuse panel to turn on when the car is on. I wanted to run the aux fuse panel off of the auxiliary battery, but instead of the direct current causing it to be 'always on' even when the car is off, I wanted it to trigger on when the car is on. My initial plan was to run an auxiliary battery off of my starting battery, with a dual battery isolator relay. So I thought I had a clever way to make this work, but I seem to have caught a snag.
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